Smoke and Fire : Spellbinding Dark Perfumes
Some of my favorite dark, smoky perfumes, classical and modern.
The smoky aromas of bonfires, roasted chestnuts, frankincense and lapsang souchong tea are among the most complex, and I know quite a few individuals who fantasize about a fragrance that smells like a smoky charcoal-grilled steak. There is a difference, however, between enjoying a scent in its proper context ? charred ribeye at a barbecue or burning leaves in an autumnal park ? and wearing a fragrance that reprises such odors. For this reason, perfumery interpretations of smoke tend to blend it into a more familiar setting of woods, spices and resins. In my FT Magazine column, Smoky Perfumes, I explore how smoky notes are used in fragrance and what effects they produce.
One of the best introductions to a smoky perfume is L?Artisan Parfumeur?s Passage d?Enfer (£105 for 100ml EDT). Perfumer Olivia Giacobetti is known for her ability to create olfactory watercolours ? airy, transparent compositions. Passage d?Enfer combines lilies and incense, filling the spaces between the white, cool petals with smoke. Giacobetti?s touch is light, and the perfume remains soft and radiant, from the smoky opening to the vanilla- and cedarwood-accented drydown. To continue reading, please click here.
What about you" Do you find smoky fragrances appealing"
Image via FT HTSI
Continue reading...
...
The smoky aromas of bonfires, roasted chestnuts, frankincense and lapsang souchong tea are among the most complex, and I know quite a few individuals who fantasize about a fragrance that smells like a smoky charcoal-grilled steak. There is a difference, however, between enjoying a scent in its proper context ? charred ribeye at a barbecue or burning leaves in an autumnal park ? and wearing a fragrance that reprises such odors. For this reason, perfumery interpretations of smoke tend to blend it into a more familiar setting of woods, spices and resins. In my FT Magazine column, Smoky Perfumes, I explore how smoky notes are used in fragrance and what effects they produce.
One of the best introductions to a smoky perfume is L?Artisan Parfumeur?s Passage d?Enfer (£105 for 100ml EDT). Perfumer Olivia Giacobetti is known for her ability to create olfactory watercolours ? airy, transparent compositions. Passage d?Enfer combines lilies and incense, filling the spaces between the white, cool petals with smoke. Giacobetti?s touch is light, and the perfume remains soft and radiant, from the smoky opening to the vanilla- and cedarwood-accented drydown. To continue reading, please click here.
What about you" Do you find smoky fragrances appealing"
Image via FT HTSI
Continue reading...
...
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